When I am not turning green wood from raw logs; I turn mostly kiln dried Maple or Cherry wood. I purchase 10′ to 12′ long x 2″ x 11″ rough stock.
If you cut up a lot of dry Maple or Cherry wood on your table saw then you should get a “Forrest Woodworker II” saw blade. I have one and I love it. It goes thru 2″ or 3″ thick maple like a hot knife thru butter. No burn marks, etc. This blade really lives up to all the positive press.
At $155 for a 10″ table saw blade they are not cheap. But, turners like to spend money on tools. 🙂 This will be money well spent.
Not long before the Covid-19 shutdown, I accidentally cut a stainless steel screw with it. I was not happy! But, when I inspected the blade, I was really surprised, I could not find any real damage. No chipped teeth. It still cuts good, but not as good as new.
The Forrest people also offer “Factory Carbide Saw Blade Sharpening” at reasonable rates. I plan on sending the blade in soon for sharpening. I was waiting for Covid-19 shutdown to ease.
This blade is good for hardwood or softwood. I have also found that it works reasonably good in plywood.
I really hate changing my table saw blade. I have actually owned a Woodworker II blade for a few years. I use to only mount it for special things. I thought it cost to much to use for everyday things. Save it for hardwood. About a year ago, I mounted it, and left it in the table saw. Because, all of my other blades were crap (needed to be sharpened real bad). I have been really happy with the Woodworker II blade for every day use. It’s staying in my table saw now 24/7.
I just purchased a “Forrest Woodworker II – Modified” blade to use while I am getting my first blade sharpened. It is a 40 tooth ATBR blade. I prefer ATBR blade for everyday use because they cut a flat bottom in groves, etc. They did not offer this blade when I got my first “Forrest Woodworker II” blade that is ATB.
Note: ATB = Alternate Top Bevel. ATBR = Alternate Top Bevel with Raker.