Dedicated Burnishing Tool

Some people burnish with the button that comes on the end of Sorby tool handles. See photo. It works. But, it is limited. You can't get into a lot of tight places. Like near the foot on the bottom of a plate or bowl.

I like to use a dedicated 5/8" burnishing tool with a Finger Nail shape. See photo. It is like a metal spinning tool.

It goes anywhere! I use the round bullet shaped part of the tool for most things. The flat part of the finger nail can be used to burnish things in tight places. I use the point on the end to burnish any grooves that I cut with my point tool. See first photo.

Any handle will do. I like to use the burnishing tool in my Jimmy Clewes 5/8" Quick Release Tool Handle. See “Carl’s Travel Tool Set” blog entry for Clewes handle info.

Step by Step Photo

This photo shows the step by step process I use to make a burnishing tool from scratch.

• Step 1: Raw 5/8" steel rod from local hardware store.
• Step 2: Grind a bullet shape on one end.
• Step 3: Sand to 600 grit.
• Step 4: Grind finger nail shape.
• Step 5: Buff It

Step 1: Cut Blank

Start with 5/8" steel rod from local hardware store. You need a 9" long blank (36" / 4 = 9")

A cheap piece of cold rolled steel. Nothing fancy. Avoid hard steels and stainless steel. Cutting and grinding them would be to much trouble.

Purchase a 36" long 5/8" steel rod and cut off a 9" long piece with a hack saw.

Step 2: Grind Bullet Shape

When you are done it should be a nice bullet shape with a subtle point. See "Step 2" in "Step by Step" photo above.

The ground part of the bullet should be roughly 3/4" long. i.e. grind back 3/4 of an inch. Create a nice subtle point!

I use my big 6" x 89" belt sander. See photo on right. I trap the rod between the belt and a scrap piece of wood. I SPIN the rod by hand and arc it back and forth to create the shape.

Only the shape is important. Use what ever tool you have. Bench grinder, belt sander, 4" angle grinder, etc.

You can use the lathe if you want. Mount the blank in a chuck (see next photo) then go at it with a hand held belt sander or 4" angle grinder. Be careful!

Mount in Chuck

If you have a collet chuck with a 5/8" collet or a metal working chuck then use it.

Otherwise, you can use your 4 jaw wood lathe chuck. See photo.

Pretend the steel rod is like the chuck screw that comes with the chuck. Jam the rod all the way into the chuck and tighten the chuck up. It may not be kosher but it works.

Grab the rod and yank on it good and hard BEFORE starting the lathe. It should be good and solid.

Or you can make your own collet chuck. See my “Shopmade Collet Chuck” blog entry.

Step 3a: Sand to 600 Grit

I sand with my normal 80, 120, 180, and 220 grit disks in an angle drill. Then I switch to blue Sia Soft for 320, 400 and 600 grits.

Remove ALL of the grinder marks on your 1st grit (80 grit) before moving on to 2nd grit.

Beware! Metal dust is nasty! Take precautions. DISCARD all sand paper after you are done.

Step 3b: Synthetic Steel Wool

Polish it synthetic steel wool or real steel wool.

The rod should be nice and shinny smooth when you are done sanding and polishing. See "Step 3" in "Step by Step" photo above.

Step 4: Grind, Sand, & Polish Finger Nail Shape

Time to grind the flat finger nail shape on the end. I use my big 6" x 89" belt sander. See photo on right.

The black magic marker line in photo, on the table of the sander (below the steel rod, it is hard to see) is a reference line. It is at roughly 15 degrees.

Only the shape is important. Use what ever tool you have. Bench grinder, belt sander, 4" angle grinder, etc.

See "Step 4" in "Step by Step" photo above for the shape.

Sand to 600 grit and polish with synthetic steel wool after you are done girding it.

Note: I want well defined edges on the flat part of the finger nail. Thus, I grind and sand it, AFTER I am done with the bullet shape.

Step 5: Buff It

The burnisher should be as smooth as a baby's bottom when done.

I buff it on a buffing wheel with brown tripoli compound. I use my Sharpening & Buffing Lathe Attachment.

Or, you can just use a buffing wheel in your 4 jaw chuck. See "Poor Man's Buffer" below.

The tip of any tool (carving gouge, etc) MUST always point in the same direction as buffing wheel rotation.

Use Tailstock & Live Center

Hold the bolt in with tailstock and live center for safety. See photo.

Buff It

Buff it with brown tripoli compound.

BEWARE! DO NOT use the tool rest in the lathe banjo when holding things up to the wheels! It is not safe.

Anything you hold up the wheels should be hand held in mid air.

The tip of any tool (carving gouge, etc) MUST always point in the same direction as buffing wheel rotation.

Thus, tools should be sharpened in the down position on the wheels with the lathe running in forward. Or in the up position with the lathe running in reverse.

Purchase Buffing Wheel & Compound

Purchase the following from local hardware store.

1. 6-1/4″ (or what ever size floats your boat) hard SPIRAL sewn buffing wheel. Dico is well known old brand.
2. Brown tripoli or red rouge buffing compound, or what ever floats your boat. I prefer brown tripoli.