I always recommend “AnchorSeal CLASSIC” when people ask me about Green Wood Sealer!
It is manufactured by UC Coatings in Buffalo, NY. They manufacture two versions of the stuff.
1. AnchorSeal Classic for …, Woodturning Blanks, …
2. AnchorSeal 2 for … A more environmentally friendly version of AnchorSeal Classic.
I DO NOT like AnchorSeal 2. AnchorSeal Classic works better on logs and blanks for Woodturning. Most turners seem to agree with me.
History
A few years back, UC Coatings came out with AnchorSeal 2. It was suppose to replace good old AnchorSeal (now called AnchorSeal Classic). It was a more environmentally friendly version of AnchorSeal. UC Coatings had to back off and rethink their plans when the new “2” version did not work as good on Woodturning blanks, etc.
Yes, I want to save the environment! But, I am NOT a logger. I don’t go out in the woods and spill AnchorSeal Classic all over the ground. I use AnchorSeal Classic in my home studio. Where I don’t spill it on the ground and waste it because it costs good money.
Why Green Wood Sealer?
People use Green Wood Sealer to seal the ends of fresh cut logs to prevent cracks. It may or may not work. It is often better than nothing.
I always seal ALL cut surfaces on any green log or blank. I seal ASAP! I seal ALL cut surfaces, not just the ends.
Why? 1. I don’t like cracks. 2. The cost of AnchorSeal is trivial compared to the time and energy I have already invested in obtaining the logs and storing them.
Applying AnchorSeal
Over the years I have learned that the best way to apply AnchorSeal is to squirt it on with a squirt bottle and spread it around with my hand. Yea, my hand works best on rough chain saw cut surfaces. I use a handful of wood shaving to clean my hand off when I am done.
I use a squirt bottle like the ones they use to use in 1950’s dinners for mustard and ketchup. See photo.
If you use a paint brush then you DO NOT need to clean the paint brush. Just let it dry up. When you want to use it again, just squirt on some AnchorSeal and it will quickly soften up.
Price & Retailers
The price of AnchorSeal Classic in 1 gallon cans really sucks! Around $51 each on 7/10/22. Plus $15 shipping to Poughkeepsie NY, 12603.
The 5 gallon price of $117, plus $21 shipping is a lot more reasonable. But, a lot more than you need?
You may be able to get it for less from Woodturning Retailers. Google “AnchorSeal Classic”. Unfortunately most of the retailers are selling “AnchorSeal 2” rather than “AnchorSeal Classic”.
Some are selling “Green Wood Sealer” that is probably “AnchorSeal 2”. But, it could be anything. It looks like clear AnchorSeal in videos. Clean AnchorSeal goes on white and dries sort of clear or whitish. They are purchasing 50 gallon drums of AnchorSeal 2 and repackaging it in 1 gallon jugs?
I recommend jointly purchasing 5 gallons with some friends or an AAW Woodturning Club.
Clear, Red, Blue, Green
AnchorSeal Classic now available in Clear, Red, Blue or Green colors. I use clear. I have only seen it in clear. The clear, dries off white.
Maybe different colors are useful in the woods when used by loggers.
Others
I have tried things other than AnchorSeal. Yellow wood glue, old latex paint, etc. They don’t work for me. Your mileage may vary.
Given enough time, everything will eventually crack! I have found that AnchorSeal works longer than other things.
Green Wood Storage
A fresh cut log left out in the hot direct sun can crack and become worthless in less than a day! In less than a few hours!
If you are going to turn a log then you don’t want it to dry out until after you turn it. Dry it slow, after you turn it, to prevent cracks. Thus, you want to store your logs so they stay wet (stay green) for as long as possible.
I agree with the people who recommend storing your logs in the shade. Outside where they get wet. Under a tree is best. After you seal the logs with AnchorSeal.
I like to store my logs on end, in contact with the ground. Some people will not agree with this. I have found this works best for me. Better, than storing logs on their sides. When I cut a log up into blanks the moisture in the blanks is more consistent. I don’t end up with a blank that is bone dry on one side and sopping wet on the other.
I put a log cookie on top of the logs that I store on end. AFTER I seal both ends with AnchorSeal Classic. A log cookie is a 2″ wide chunk of log that I cut off some other log in the past and saved. Contact with the ground prevents moisture loss on one end. The log cookie slows moisture loss on the other end. See photo.
Wet wood does not burn in a fireplace or campfire. If you want to burn wood you want it to dry out. Thus, you store it up off the ground. Stacked on it’s side. Out of the rain. These are all the things we should AVOID doing if we want logs to stay wet (green) for as long as possible.
Thanks for the info. I try to rough cut bowls soon after acquiring and store them in a paper yard waste bag with the same shavings after marking them each with the moister content taken at the finished time of turning. Usually, the hard wood moisture drops enough within six or eight months to finish turning with minimum cracking. Always looking for take-downs in the neighborhood during the summer months and rough cutting and wait for the winter months to finish turning.
Great advice as always, thanks
The way you use Anchor Seal it is exactly how I apply and store my wood, with minimal checking ,,
I use your method and it works really well but I also put a cookie on the bottom so the log is not in contact with the ground.