Click here for a PRINTABLE version of the above blueprint.

I like Sanding Backup Pads (mandrels) that are thin, low profile and HARD. I add (attach) firm or soft foam interface pads to make them softer as needed.

I don't like thicker pads. Low profile pads are better at getting into the tight space between headstock and bowl.

I started making my own Sanding Backup Pads a couple of years ago when the price on commercially available ones went to $12. Way to much! I now just replace the velcro on my big collection of DIY sanding backup pads as needed. See Repair Worn Out Velcro below.

I make my backup pads out of 1/4" plywood and 1/4" flat head bolts.

I ALWAYS use a interface pad because it allows me to quickly switch between sandpaper grits. I have one FIRM and SOFT interface pad for each grit. See my Handy Sandpaper blog entry.

Notes:

1. Gripping the threaded part of the bolt in a drill chuck is not a problem. It works just fine.

2. If you are using interface pads to adjust the softness of pad then you don’t need and really don’t want a thick back up pad with lots of flex/foam.

Layout and Drill 1/4″ Plywood

I layout 2" and 3" backup pads on good 1/4" plywood. Use a compass or template. See photo.

Drill a countersink hole for 1/4" flat head bolt. Then drill a 1/4" thru hole. See photo.

The countersink in the photo is a cheap and very common Vermont American one.

ROUGH Cut 1/4″ Plywood

Use what every you have to ROUGH cut the circle. Cut OUTSIDE of the line.

I use my small wood cutting bandsaw. See my Small Wood Bandsaw bog entry.

Assemble with 5 Minute Epoxy

I use a FULLY THREADED 1/4" by 20 flat head bolt that is 1-3/4" long from local hardware store. With a nut and washer.

The plywood will eventually just spin on the bolt if you don't put some 5 min epoxy in the joint. I put 5 min epoxy above the bolt head and below the nut to create a rock solid joint. See photo.

Make Plywood Round & Sand

Turn the 1/4" plywood circle round on the lathe.

I use a drill chuck in the headstock with a 1/2" scrap of plywood jammed up against the backup pad on the tailstock side. See photo.

The 1/2" scrap of plywood prevents tears out. I turn it down to 1-7/8" or 2-7/8" on the first backup pad I make. Then, I use it over and over.

I use a 1/2" bowl gouge to turn the plywood round. Cut half way in from both sides to avoid tear out. Then use the 1/2" bowl gouge in scrapping mode to round the back side of the 1/4" plywood. See photo and my Blueprint.

I don't allow any sharp edges in my studio that can accidentally cut me. Thus, I sand the 1/4" plywood smooth with 120 grit sandpaper. Red Siasoft Sandpaper works good.

Purchase Hook Side Only Velcro

I purchase a 6" wide roll of Sew On "Hook Side Only" velcro from you guessed it. Amazon. See photo.

I attach the velcro with 5 min epoxy. Sticky back velcro is to wimpy for me. It does not work.

Google "6" Sew On Hook and Loop Fastner Hook Side Only"

Note: I like HARD backup pads. This makes finding velcro cheap and easy. I DO NOT need to find velcro with a firm or soft foam backing. I add (attach) interface pads to make them softer as needed.

ROUGH Cut Hook & Loop Velcro

I cut out 2" or 3" circles of velcro with scissors. Cut OUTSIDE the line. It should end up being a 1/4" oversize.

Remember, to ALWAYS use your wife's best sewing scissors in the shop! 🙂

Glue On Velcro

Glue the velcro on with 5 min epoxy.

I spread the epoxy and plywood then clamp it in place with a scarp piece of plywood. Or glue up two at a time and clamp them back to back. See photo.

Trim Velcro to Finial Size

I mount the backup pad in the lathe with a drill chuck and trim the velcro down to match the plywood size with a spindle gouge.

I use a scrap of plywood that is bigger than the velcro on the velcro side to backup the cut. The scrap is just jammed in place by the tailstock. See photo.

Finished Backup Pad (Back Side)

Ready for use.

Finished Backup Pad (Front Side)

A thing of great beauty.