More Bosch Stabilizer Holes

Photo: More Bosch Stabilizer Holes - SendCutSend (bosch_stabilizer_holes_2024_blue)

I added 9 more fulcrum pin holes to my Trent Bosch Hollowing Tool Stabilizer. Now there is always a hole in the right location! This really saves time and makes hollowing a lot more fun!

This is the REDESIGNED version of my Tool Rest for Bosch Stabilizer. This design can be ordered from SendCutSend. The holes in my old version were to close together for SendCutSend. For the old version see my More Bosch Stabilizer Holes – Old – Before SendCutSend blog entry.

What is SendCutSend? See my SendCutSend for Custom Low Cost Metal Parts blog entry.

I use a Trent Bosch Hollowing Tool Stabilizer with a fulcrum pin for all of my hollowing.

I am addicted to the fulcrum pin! Using the pin makes hollowing easy, fast and stress free.

However, the fulcrum pin needs to be in the correct location. If it is only 1/8" of an inch to far to the left or right of the hollow form opening then it is no good!

Thus, I like to have lots of overlapping fulcrum pin holes in the tool rest of my stabilizer. So there is always a hole in the right position. I don't like to waste time moving the banjo on my lathe in/out to move a hole into the right position.

Trent's Stabilizer is great. But, it only has 6 fulcrum pin holes in the tool rest. Not enough for me.

Carl’s Custom Stabilizer Tool Test

This photos shows the stock tool rest that comes with Trent Bosch's Hollowing Tool Stabilizer on the right. It only has 6 fulcrum pin holes that DO NOT overlap.

My custom tool rest with 15 overlapping fulcrum pin holes is on the left.

With my tool rest you never need to move the banjo in/out to move the pin to a better location. You just move the pin to a different hole in the tool rest.

Changes for SendCutSend

This section is kind of boring! With lots of details that are not important. You can skip it, if you want.

I had to make the follow changes to my old tool rest hole pattern to meet SendCutSend requirements.

Stack 2 of 1/2" Tall (thick) Steel Bar to get 1" Tall (Bosch is 1" Tall). SendCutSend max steel thickness is 1/2". I tried a single 1/2" Tall Steel Bar. It flexed to much, shakes the video camera to much.
Bolt the 1/2" thick bars together with 1/2"-13 Socket Head Screws. Use two new 1/2"-13 x 1-3/4" Socket Head Screws. Discard the Bosch 1/2"-13 x 1" Socket Head Screw. It is to short.
Bolt Heads sticking out above the 1" Tall Steel Bar (rather than recessed in 3/4" hole, 1/2" deep). They become safety pins.
Make the Steel Bar 1-3/4" Wide (rather than Bosch 1-1/2" Wide) to make it stronger after adding holes.
Make holes 12.8mm rather than 12.7mm (1/2") to allow for Powder Coat and Laser Cut holes. The holes will be dead on 1/2" after I ream them.
Make Steel Bar 8" Long (Rather than Bosch 7-1/2") to allow for 8 holes on 18mm centers with a 5.1mm Bridge Size. (SendCutSend Min Bridge Size is 0.170" = 4.3mm)

Note: I have learned over time, that I really like having the bolt heads stick up both ends. It is a good safety feature. Not a limitation. There is no way you can slip off the end of the rest.

Order from SendCutSend – Then Make Your Own

Here is how you can make your own tool rest with Carl's hole pattern. First you order the raw parts from SendCutSend. Then you have to do a little work on your own.

Order from SendCutSend

I created the CAD DXF files you need to order the “Tool Rest Bars” from SendCutSend.

Download my stabilizer_holes_2024_sendcutsend.zip file. It contains the following:

◆ bosch_stabilizer_holes_2024.dxf file – Order TWO of these from SendCutSend.

When you order TWO of the above from SendCutSend, I recommend you ask for Material =”HR A36/1008 Mild Steel”, Thickness = .500", with Gloss Black Powder Coat.

On 2/26/2026, ordering TWO of the above would cost me $83 with free shipping. My order JPG file is in the ZIP file.

For more info see my How To Order a Part from SendCutSend blog append.

Notes:

1. Click here if you need help with how to access the files inside of a ZIP file.

2. SendCutSend will Deburr after Laser Cutting, if and only if they Powder Coat.

I don't want to spend my time deburring lots of bars for me and my students. Thus, I order things with Powder Coat. It also prevents rust in the long run.

On 2/26/2026 if you order TWO of the above with out Powder Coat it is $68. Thus you save $83 – $68 = $15. But, you will have to deburr things on your own. See "SendCutSend Deburring" section in my SendCutSend for Custom Low Cost Parts bog entry for more info. Saving $15 is not worth the hassle?

Purchase Nuts & Bolts
You need TWO bolts and TWO nuts.

I STRONGLY recommend you get these from your local hardware store or Amazon. If you purchase them from McMaster you will end up, paying a lot for 10 bolts and 50 nuts. When you only need two bolts and two nuts.

◆ Two of 1/2"-13 x 1-3/4" Socket Head Screw (aka Bolt). McMaster # 91251A718

◆Two of 1/2"-13 Stop Nut (aka Nylon-Insert Locknut). McMaster # 95615A109

◆ One of 3/8" Hex Allen L-Key. McMaster # 7122A52, For bolts. If you don't already have one.

You can use any 1-3/4" long bolts and 1/2" nuts that float your boat. You DO NOT need the fancy ones, I recommend here.

Note: You need two nuts for the Ream or Drill 1/2" Holes step below. You will only need one nut when you install the new tool rest.

Remove Powder Coat
I recommend removing the Powder Coat from the TOP of the top bar with a belt sander, or what ever you have.

I also recommend rounding over the TOP edges of the top bar. Hand sand on a small 1/16" diameter round over. This will allow your hollowing bar to slide around easily with out catching on a sharp edge.

See photo on right. The top bar in the back has the powder coating removed from just the TOP of bar. The bottom bar is in front for comparison purposes.

Note: I tried leaving the powder coat on top of top bar. The powder coat got all torn up. Then my hollowing bar did NOT slide around easily. I gave up and sanded the power coat off the top of the top bar.

Bolt Tool Bars Together
Bolt the TWO tool bars together with two 1/2 nuts and bolts. See Purchase Nuts & Bolts above for bolt size, etc.

Flip the bars around and find the best fit. The ones you get from SendCutSend are flat, but not dead flat. Thus they may fit together better one way. With the smallest gap between the bars.

Do this BEFORE you ream or drill out the holes in next step. Well, you may have to ream or drill out the bolt holes on the ends. On each piece separately. Then bolt them together.

Ream or Drill 1/2″ Holes
The 1/2" holes cut by SendCutSend are laser cut. They are not drilled and reamed. The laser leaves a little burr INSIDE each hole where the laser starts or stops.

You need to Ream or Drill out the 1/2” holes to remove this burr.

Reaming is the way to go. It will create holes that are dead on 1/2" diameter. Thus the fulcrum pins, that Trent supplies, will fit snugly in each hole.

You can drill the holes out with a 1/2" drill, if you don't want to purchase a reamer (see next section). I recommend reaming!

I recommend mounting the reamer in a Drill Press.

Notice how I used a scrap of wood to hold the bars up off the bolts while reaming. See photo on right.

Note: Temporarily bolt the top and bottom bars together before reaming. You want the holes in the top and bottom bars to line up PRECISELY.

Purchase 1/2″ Reamer
You can purchase a cheap, but good enough, reamer on Amazon. $10 on 2/1/2026.

Google Uxcell Chucking Reamer 1/2" 6 Strait Flutes Round Shank

Install New Tool Rest
Remove the nut and bolt from one end of your new tool rest.

Remove the old Bosch Tool Rest with a 3/8" Hex Allen Wrench. Install the new rest with the longer bolt that you just removed from new rest.

Hint: You may need more leverage to remove the existing tool rest bolt. i.e. you need a longer handle on your 3/8" Hex Allen Wrench. Slip a piece of small diameter scrap pipe over the end of the Allen wrench to make it longer.